(NuAire Drimaster range and all PIV,PPU,and ACUs )

YES. They cost pence a week to run and you get free heat from the sun as a bonus. There is even heat coming up from the house that is recycled.  The Drimaster is designed for a long life at only 12v. 5yr Manufacturers guarantee.

The machine has an immediate effect but allow 3-6 days to balance the humidity and longer to dry the house out completely.
Tip: For best results set the machine so it works properly on normal days - not for damp cold days which only happen occasionally. Gradually increase the power till the condensation on the windows stops most of the time .

YES.  The latest design is whisper quiet and is also suspended in the roof to reduce vibration

The damp comes back if left off for a long time …. but after a power cut the machine will self start and then reset itself to your chosen setting

Is there any daylight?. If not check outside for sofit vents or roof vents - essential to keep the roof aired.  Check no one has covered the sofit vents with insulation. The machine relies on a constant supply of air. Dryhomes roof vents can be DIY fitted and can be found on our products page

It is white, square and about 1’0” square. After a day or two you forget it's there.

YES. PPV’s are electronically controlled. On hot summer days they switch off. Note :- If you buy the sensor model, which can detect if a cold room needs heating from the air in the roof, it will keep running to warm the house

No home is totally air tight so the damp air escapes via cracks and crevices

Once set you just leave the unit alone. All initial settings are made by pressing one button on the machine: 6 settings to suit homes up to 5 bedrooms. The humidity can be monitored with a thermo-hygrometer available from us.

The windows will mist up again like before – people get used to drier homes very fast and take the unit for granted. See Troubleshooting at the bottom of the page.

Clothes drying, fish tanks and indoor plants add water and create condensation.  Any self inflicted problems must be matched by an increase in the air movement through the PIV. Dry clothes out of doors whenever possible – it is very eco friendly and saves you money.

The air in the roof is warmer than air in the house on most days from March to September. In winter there is little or no solar gain except on sunny days. But two things are worth remembering:

1. heating the air costs about 20% of your heating bill (the other 80% heats the walls, floor and roof).
2. A dry house “feels” warmer at a lower temperature so you can turn down the heat slightly in winter and feel just as warm.

The unit is protected by a 1amp fuse so any convenient light circuit can be used. It runs at 12 volts and the transformer is included.

NO. Once installed there is no need to do anything apart for keeping the electric supply on. The machines have a no quibble guarantee for 5 years from the manufacturers. After 5 years the filters need changing – phone dryhomes.

Only if you kill it with fungicide or dilute bleach – best done when the machine is installed. The mould will not return when the condensation is under control.

The size of a microwave oven

We allow 21 days to send a unit back, complete in its original packaging. You need a return reference number RRN so please phone our office. Obviously we want happy customers so I would like you to chat with our office staff so we can discuss any of your problems. We may be able to sort it out!

Has the damp come back? The easy way to tell if the machine is running is to hold a bit of cotton or wool near the diffuser on a broom handle. If it the ceiling is low you can feel the incoming dry air with your hand.

In a normal house the top of the stairwell is best. In bungalows fit one in the hall near the front door so the air has time to temper and mix. Above a radiator is ideal. In bungalows we have also had great success installing the diffuser in an airing cupboard ceiling and venting the side of the airing cupboard – this warms the dry air fully before entering the hall

No – but do keep internal doors ajar whenever possible.... especially when leaving the house.

Yes. The bigger the roof the better supply of fresh air is available to your home. Also south facing slopes give more solar gain and this should be considered a bonus. Small roof sloping the wrong way will work if the ventilation is good

Good question. The sensor will check if a cold room is cooler than the roof void and keep on working. A very sensible feature. How much solar gain is made is difficult to say but clearly the hotter the roof and the cooler cold room the quicker you will recoup the initial cost

Nothing – you come home to a fresh house. This is wonderful if you install the unit in a holiday home where use is intermittent. TIP: Make sure there is always power especially if the electricity is metered

It is likely that this room will be affected by the unit but is unlikely to resolve major problems. Showers and bathrooms must be vented. We always specify humidity controlled fans rather than timed fans – Tip: make sure they are high quality or the noise will be intolerable at night. A bathroom without vents is below current Building Standards F1

A competent DIY er can fit a PIV in morning. We recommend that the final connection, if not done by a electrician with part P, be checked by a competent professional

Plasterboard saw to cut a 9” hole in the ceiling. Tape to measure the site position. Pencil. Screwdriver. Drill to fit diffuser. Ladder or steps to loft. Power cable and light.
Electrical screwdriver. Connection box (the fused spur and transformer are included in the box)... 1.5 cable to the lighting circuit. Cable clips

• Are you keeping the internal doors ajar most of the time. This is especially important when you go out as it allows air into the remote problem areas.
• The machine is set too low. I like to begin at 2 for a bungalow and 4 for a house. This is a good guide. If the effect is not great enough put the power setting up. By starting low you can increase till the correct setting is found.
• Is it particularly cold and damp outside?  Inevitably there will be periods of high humidity outside when even positive pressure cannot cope – but it is still working for you.
• Are you sure the roof is properly ventilated. Sofit vents are required to maintain the roof timbers in a good condition as well as keeping a good air flow.
• Is the problem in a remote room? The excellent results will be in rooms directly off the stair well or hall. The control of remote rooms will be much reduced unless the doors are wide open.
• If a water tank in the roof is open tape it over with polythene to stop evaporation. This should be done anyway to stop foreign bodies entering the water supply.
• Make sure no fan is exhausting into the roof!
• TOP TIP . If you think the unit is not working well stop the unit for a day or two and note how quickly the damp problem returns!     

• If the roof is hot the unit will switch off
• If there is no light on the setting button the power supply is off
• When a light is on and the roof is cool contact dryhomes with your invoice number and the reference number found on the unit. We will liaise with the maker.

• Check to see if the machine is powered and running.
• Have any changes been made to the home – double glazing, draught proofing, more people (especially babies), plants and fish tanks…. Etc. each change can affect the humidity.
• Set the unit to a higher power by pressing the single button. Increase the power one step at a time

• Most likely a mechanical fault – contact dryhomes

No cross-contamination takes place via the well designed outer grill

YES

NO. There is no difference between the air coming in and out so no draughts are made.

Good question. The sensor is very accurate and it is also away from the fan making the control very effective. The HRV will not waste energy like an extractor fan. As well as extracting wet air it brings in new dry air – this is a positive process which is much more effective in controlling condensation.

• Have you cleaned off the original mould with fungicide or dilute bleach? The machine will not remove the live mould and staining. This must be done when the machine is fitted.
• Are you keeping the doors ajar most of the time. Especially important when you go out as it allows air into the remote corners.
• The machine is set too high. I like to begin at 75% relative humidity. This is a good guide. If the effect is not great enough put the setting down to 70% (it will now start boost earlier and continue for longer. By starting high you can decrease till the correct setting is found. TIP not the same advice for a PIV where you increase the power!
• Is it particularly cold and damp outside?  Inevitably there will be periods of high humidity outside when even a HRV cannot cope – but it is still reducing the problem.
• Is the problem in a remote room? The control of remote rooms will be much reduced unless the doors are wide open.

• If there is no light on the control box the power supply is off. Rectify
• If the power button is red and the fan is stopped pull the over ride. If still no boost phone dryhomes. We will liaise with the maker.

• Check to see if the machine is powered and running.
• Have any changes been made to the home – double glazing, draught proofing, more people (especially babies), plants and fish tanks…. Etc. each change can affect the humidity.
• Set the unit to be more sensitive by moving the dial to a LOWER setting.

Most likely a mechanical fault – contact dryhomes

A HCF expels water vapour outside so it cannot leave the bathroom or kitchen and cause condensation problems in other rooms. The effectiveness of the fan depends on the AUTOMATIC switching to control of humidity. No human being is capable of judging how long to leave a fan running.

There is always heat loss when extraction is used. However remember 2 things: - only 20% of your heating bill is used to heat the air and a dry home feels warmer so can be heated to a lower temperature.

Good question.
Timed fans do not detect and control humidity.
They rarely run long enough to do any good but they can over-run wasting electricity.
You normally have to leave a light on if you want to make them run overtime thus wasting power.
You must stay at home to switch it off when you think the place is dry: humans can tell wet from dry but only machines can detect humidity with any accuracy
.........Timed fans simply don't work!

An automatic controller switches the fan on and off only when required. Damp, stale, unhealthy air is expelled so it cannot cause condensation problems in other rooms. They are good for en-suite and localised problems. Especially useful in remote rooms where the PPV or HRV air cannot circulate

Burglars, dust, pollen and noise pollution may enter.
Heat will escape.
Cold draughts will make the home uncomfortable.
The insulation quality of double glazing will be lost.
You've probably tried it and it does not work!

The fans work immediately in the room in which it is installed – most commonly the bathroom or kitchen. Adjoining rooms benefit as well because the water vapour no longer migrates into the rest of the house. See Boyle's Law if you want some science.

It depends on how much you pay. A cheap fan will be quite noisy but still effective. Middle range fans are quiet and have a longer life. The top quality HCF in our range is whisper quiet, very powerful, and efficient and has a very long design life.

The main benefit of the HCF is that it can be installed into a 100mm hole and so replaces an existing timed fan in minutes (a permanent and switched power supply are needed).  The HCF can be installed through a roof void to save cost. A heat recovery ventilator is brilliant for venting bathrooms and kitchens and is the best machine for flats but needs a 150mm hole in an outside wall. The heat recovery system is very much cheaper to run and much more effective in reducing humidity than a HCF ….. So if your installation requires a new hole being drilled and new electrics then the HRV is the one to buy.

The damp comes back…. after a power cut the machine will self start and then reset itself to your chosen setting

HCFs are fully automatically and switch on and off according to humidity. Some do have a manual over ride so if you want to boost the fan, say to get rid of cooking smells, you can    

Once set you can leave the unit alone.

Clothes drying, fish tanks and indoor plants add water and create moulds.  Self inflicted dampness needs an increase in the ventilation and makes the system have to work harder. Any system can be overpowered by the family lifestyle. Drying clothes out of doors when possible is VERY eco friendly and cheap.

It can cause small draughts due to air movement in the home.

NO. Once installed there is no need to do anything apart for keeping the electric supply on. Any filters fitted need washing in the sink when they get dirty.

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Only if you kill it with fungicide or dilute bleach – best done when the machine is installed. The mould will not return when the condensation is under control.

We allow 21 days to send a unit back, complete in its original packaging. You need a return reference number RRN so please phone our office. Obviously we want happy customers so I would like you to chat with our office staff so we can discuss any of your problems. We may be able to sort it out! See Terms and conditions.

Listen for the air flow.

If there is no existing hole a new one will have to be drilled. Also new electric wiring will be needed. For these reasons it is very wise to install a HRV because the installation costs are similar to a small 100mm fan. The HRV is far superior to the HCF as it is more effective and very cheap to run.
If you have a conventional roof have you thought of installing a PIV? They are the best…

An outside wall of the hall, kitchen or bathroom. TIP: The best machine is capable of pumping air for 12 meters and so can be ducted through ceilings to the outside and save the expense of drilling a hole. NEVER extract straight into the roof or it will get very damp and can cause trouble.

No – but it will help whenever possible.

NO. The HCF will have a good effect in a flat or very small home. Some homes have problems in one area – the HCF is ideal to tackle a minor  problem automatically. The whole house system is the PIV which is installed in the roof.

The simple answer is - the one that works most of the time. A low setting (RH 65%) will be most effective but may result in the fan running too often. Experiment and find setting near 70% that will solve your problem. NOTE: Mould starts at 80% but will continue growing at lower humidity.

Nothing – you come home to a fresh house.  A major benefit. This is brilliant if you install the unit in a holiday home where use is intermittent. TIP: Make sure there is always power especially if the electricity is metered. Leave the doors open.

Screwdriver. Drill to screw the unit to the ceiling/wall. Ladder or steps up to the ceiling.

• Have you cleaned off the original mould with fungicide or dilute bleach? The machine will not remove the live mould and staining. This must be done when the machine is fitted.
• Are you keeping the doors ajar most of the time. Especially important when you go out as it allows air into the remote corners.
• The machine is set too high. I like to begin at 75% relative humidity. This is a good guide. If the effect is not great enough put the setting down to 70% (it will now start boost earlier and continue for longer). By starting high you can decrease till the correct setting is found. TIP: Not the same advice for a PIV where you increase the power!
• Is it particularly cold and damp outside?  Inevitably there will be periods of high humidity outside when a HCF cannot cope – but it is still reducing the problem.
• Is the problem in a remote room? The control of remote rooms will be much reduced unless the doors are wide open. Maybe need more background heat.

• If there is no light on the control box the power supply is off. Rectify
• If the power button is red and the fan is stopped pull the over ride. If still not running phone dryhomes. We will liaise with the manufacturer.

• Check to see if the machine is powered and running.
• Have any changes been made to the home – double glazing, draught proofing, more people (especially babies), plants and fish tanks…. etc. each change can increase the humidity.
• Set the unit to be more sensitive by moving the dial to a LOWER setting.

• Most likely a mechanical fault – contact dryhomes

The PPV needs a constant gentle supply of outside air which is dry so the roof must have a good airflow to supply the unit.

What causes Condensation in lofts?

Leaking fan vents from below should be replaced
Lack of sofit vents.Too few sofit vents. Are there any sofit vents? If so are they covered with insulation?
No tile vents. Have tile vents been fitted amongst the slates on the roof itself?
Has cladding covered the sofits so the roof cannot breath?
Water tanks without covers cause evaporation?

YES. If you roof has under felt Dryhomes roof vents can be used to open up air ducts

• Very cheap and effective
• Only 1 "dryhomes vent" is needed per 5mtrs of floor space.
• Quick to install - the average roof would take 1 hour
• No scaffolding - installation is achieved from inside the roof
• Can be DIY fitted with no tools

General
• Don't dry clothes inside you home – our top tip... but we know it can be difficult to follow
• Tumble drier / Washing machine – use a condensing type  – otherwise it must be vented outside
• Don't use butane or paraffin – they produce more water than the liquid fuel they burn!
• Consider reducing the number/size of plants – water a plant and it gives off vapour
• Don't put furniture against cold outside walls – mould grows on the back
• Consider fitting trickle vents in the window frames
• Remove aquariums which evaporate lots of vapour
• Maintaining background heating at low level is better than rapid rises and falls
• Leave doors of remote rooms, cupboards and wardrobes ajar to let air and heat circulate
• Open windows and doors – on a warm, breezy day it's a great way to dry a soggy home
  Kitchen
• Use lids when boiling vegetables
• Consider using a pressure cooker - you get energy savings as well
• Mop up any water so it doesn't evaporate into the home: drain sinks and bowls to stop evaporation
• If a cooker hood is used run it on afterwards for 20 minutes - this only works if the hood vents outside!
• Open window for half an hour and keep the kitchen door closed during cooking
  Bathroom
• Shower less often and/or for a shorter time
• Bathroom fan – leave the light on to keep it running for 20 minutes after a shower
• Bathroom window – leave ajar for half an hour and keep the bathroom door closed after use

Benefits of Self Help Approach

• It's free or quite cheap
• Each change reduces condensation

• It requires the co-operation of the whole family
• It's hard to change enough to reduce the humidity to levels (less than 65%RH) to eliminate condensation problems
• Opening windows results in uncontrolled heat loss and isn't environmentally friendly... and it's expensive!
• It requires sacrifice - most of us don't want to pile on jumpers and live in draughts
• Leaving windows open can create a security risk

Nothing as long as the problem is localised or small.
And you don't mind emptying them.
And you can stand the noise - especially at night when they should be running.
Any you can find a floor space to park it.
And you can live with 10 times the power consumption of a ventilation system that works.
Nothing at all.